Washer Dryer Home Design – Everyone has a list of household “problems” that they want to solve at some point. For us, our “laundry problem” has been at the top of the list for years.
We have a nice little 60’s farmhouse with a laundry closet that doesn’t fit modern sized washer/dryers, so the laundry has probably been done in a semi-attached garage for the last few decades.
Washer Dryer Home Design
It’s a bit of a pain to go through a door, down the stairs, through the car door and through another locked door every time I wash everything, but I felt so bad. the laundry was technically. In Todd’s music studio and it kind of killed the professional atmosphere there.
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I’ve always wanted to build a simple cupboard to hide the units away from when not in use, but it’s such a tight space and seeing as the oven door opens.
It took me a while to hunt down the right hardware for a project this size, but I finally found it and it works perfectly! Here’s what we did and I’ll also show you a budget solution…
The first step is to measure your stacked washer/dryer so you can see how tall/wide/deep your cabinet needs to be. We knew that when the 3/4″ thick cabinet door was slid into the cabinet, the door and sliding door hardware would take up 1 3/4″ on each side, so we had to add 3 1/2″ ( 1 3/4″ x 2 = 3 1/2″) to the measured width of my washer/dryer to find the minimum amount of cabinet space needed.
How much extra space you want between the washer/dryer and cabinet doors is up to you, so add a few inches on either side as desired for the final measurement. We were pretty tight on space with a small air conditioner next to the washer, so we had to keep the measurements pretty close.
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Make sure your cabinet is deep enough to cover the sides of your unit and leave enough room in front for the 3/4″ thick doors to close inside the cabinet frame without hitting the front of the washers. With the height, I would only go a few inches above the dryer unless you are trying to match the height of something else in the next room.
Build a 3-sided box that meets your height/width/depth requirements as you saw in the first step above, using whatever size 3/4-inch plywood sheets you want, and place it around your unit to make sure it just fits. right. However, do not nail or screw!
If you want to paint the inside of your closet, now is the best time to do the sides, as it will be difficult to do once everything is in place. It’s also very easy to install the hardware before you attach the edges of your 3-sided box to your top fabric, so I’ll show you how we did it.
We used two sets of this sliding system for the doors (this part is mounted on the sides of your cabinet) with two of these rods sliding at the same speed to connect the up and down slides on each side (can be cut). stick). shorter if you need a smaller one with a simple saw).
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We installed the sliding hardware starting at 1 1/4″ away from the front edge of each side board and 60″ apart, and cut two bars to fit that distance and attached the hardware. Then we repeated the process on the other side.
Once the sliding hardware is in place, it’s time to cut our doors! Unlike some cabinet doors that stick out of the opening to completely cover the hole, you want these doors to fit inside the cabinet, so you want to measure the space inside the frame between the sides and top to bottom.
To find the width of your door, divide the width measurement in half (since you will have two doors) and I would subtract 1/8″ from the width of each door so that your doors are not too out of place in the space. Also, take 1/2″ off the height of the doors and have them flush with the top but slightly off the floor so they can open freely below without breaking the floor.
We bought boards that were larger than we needed and used a circular saw to cut the doors to size (if you have access to a table saw, this is the easiest way to cut a large board). If a table saw or circular saw seems a little scary to you, I totally understand, and you can use a less scary saw instead – I promise, they’re not scary at all, and very useful!
Photo Of Washing Machine Standing In A Laundry Room In A Modern Minimalist Home 26810261 Stock Photo At Vecteezy
To install our new doors, we used two of these full-cap hinges to attach the cabinet doors to the sliders so they could slide in and out of the cabinet and open properly. You can place your door next to the appropriate side panel and note where the hardware should sit on the door for proper alignment.
We used a 1 1/2″ hole saw drill bit to drill 1/2″ deep into the door wherever the hinge needed to go, and then tapped the excess wood with a chisel and flat head screwdriver. a hinge to sit on (basically what this video shows for making a similar door hardware).
Then we can install the hinge sets and attach them to the sliding systems on each side and make sure the doors work.
Most systems like this have some adjustment options on the hinges themselves, so loosening or tightening some screws will cause the door to sit up/down or pull back/forward, so you’ll have to make those adjustments yourself inside the hinges. if the door does not fit properly when you first put it on.
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Once each door is installed on each side, you can place the 3-way box back on top of your washer dryer for another fit for any final adjustments. If everything looks right and the doors open and close properly, go ahead and screw the top to the sides of your cabinet, connecting all three main parts.
For stability, we cut some back brackets to attach the cabinet to the back to make it sturdier and prevent it from wobbling. Since there are a lot of wires and pipes that need to come out from behind the washer/dryer, I didn’t want to fully brace the back of the cabinet, so I used some “X” brackets and a straight wide piece. it looked like. better way to go.
Instead of gluing them, we just screwed them in so that if there is a maintenance issue and someone needs to get into the back of the machine, we can remove the brackets and slide the cabinet in front of the washer/dryer. field. .
It’s also hard to drill right angles into the back of the cabinet without pulling it forward to stand behind the washer/dryer, so we cut the brackets to fit inside the cabinet so we could drill them into the sides instead of screwing them directly into the back of the cabinet edge.
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Once the brackets are in place, it’s time to add a coat of paint, some handles, and the 4 little black pegs you see at the top of the cabinet (they come with the hardware and hold the doors in place when they roll up and close).
I added some hardware to each door (these are a great option) so that when the doors slide sideways they will have to stop when they hit the hardware, but you want/need them to go all the time. once, you can use equipment like this for a fully installed option.
Pretty cool, huh? You’ll notice that we made a cutout on the lower right side of the cabinet so that it would sit on that hook and match the trim, but that’s a bit of a unique need for our space, so I’d imagine. most. people would do full panels on each side. I love that Todd can now go from “laundry room” to “music studio” mode in seconds without taking up almost any room in that small area.
While I absolutely love the sliding door feature, it is a little expensive to add this hardware, so if you can make room for the doors to be open enough to keep the washer door open (you should do this with front-loading washers if possible to prevent mold growth) you can
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