Washer Dryer Small Home – Everyone has a list of household “problems” that they want to solve someday. For us, “laundry issues” have been at the top of the list for years.
We have a cute little 60’s ranch house with a laundry closet that doesn’t fit a modern sized washer/dryer, so our laundry has been done in a semi-attached garage for the past few decades.
Washer Dryer Small Home
It’s definitely a bit of a pain to walk out the door, down the stairs, through the car, and through another locked door with all the laundry every time I do something, but I guess technically laundry is worse. Todd is in the music studio and the professional vibe there is killer.
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I have always wanted to build a simple cabinet to hide the appliance when not in use, but when I saw that the space was tight and the oven door was open.
It took me a long time to find the right hardware for the size of the project, but I finally found it and it works great! Here’s what we do and I’ll also show you some budget work options…
The first step is to measure the assembled washer/dryer so you can see how tall/wide/deep your closet will be. We know that when the 3/4″ thick cabinet doors are pushed into the cabinet, the doors and sliding door hardware take up 1 3/4″ on each side, so we need to add 3 1/2 inches (1). 3/4″ x 2 = 3 1/2″) to the width of my washer/dryer, measured to find the minimum cabinet space needed.
It’s up to you how much extra space you want between the washer/dryer and the cabinet door, so add a few inches to the left of what you need for the final measurement. With the small AC unit next to the washing machine, we are very tight on space, so we had to keep the dimensions close.
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Make sure your cabinet is deep enough to cover the sides of your appliance, and leave enough space on the front to cover the 3/4-inch-thick door inside the cabinet frame without hitting the front of the washer. Height-wise, I’d go a few inches higher than the top of the dryer, unless you’re trying to match the height of something else in the store room.
Using a sheet of 3/4″ plywood of the size you need, make a 3-sided box that meets the height/width/depth requirements as shown in step one above, and place it around your unit to make sure it fits. Do not nail or stand in place!
If you want to paint the inside of the cabinet, now is the best time to do that side because it will be difficult to do once everything is in place. It’s also easier to attach the hardware before attaching the sides of the 3-way box to the top, so I’ll show you how we did it.
For the door, we use two sets of this sliding system (this part is attached to the side of your cabinet) with these two rods (you can cut) to connect the upper and lower slides of both sides to slide at the same speed. If you need less with a regular saw, the rods are shorter).
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We installed sliding hardware 1 1/4″ from the front edge of each side board and 60 inches apart, and cut two rods to match that distance and attach the hardware assembly. Then we repeat the process on the other side.
With the sliding hardware installed, it’s time to cut our doors! Unlike some cabinet doors that sit outside the opening to completely cover the opening, you want to fit the door into the cabinet frame, so you’ll want to measure the space inside the frame from the sides and top to bottom.
To find the width of the door, divide the width measurement in half (since you will have two doors) and I will take 1/8″ from the width of each door so that your door does not fit too tightly in the space. Also from the height of the door Remove 1/2 inch and install them flush with the top but slightly off the floor so they can open freely without scratching the floor.
We bought a larger board than we needed and used a circular saw to cut the door to size (if you have access to a table saw, this is the easiest way to cut a large board). If a table saw or circular saw seems a little intimidating to you, I get it, and you can use a less intimidating jig saw instead – I promise, they’re not scary and very useful!
Small Laundry Room Makeover!
To install our new doors, we used these two full-cover hinge sets to attach the cabinet doors to the sliders so they slide in and out of the cabinet and open properly. You can place the door next to the matching side panel and mark the door seat so that the unit sits correctly.
We used a 1 1/2″ hole saw bit to drill 1/2″ each way through the door and drill where the hinge would go, then saw off the excess wood to create a recess for the hinge we beat with a chisel and a flat screwdriver. to sit (Actually what this video shows for the same prep doors).
Then, we can install the hinge assembly and connect it to the sliding system on each side and make sure the door works.
Most systems like this have to have some adjustment options on the hinge itself, so loosening or tightening some screws will cause the door to sit higher/lower or pull back/forward, so you you can make these adjustments on the hook part itself. if the door is not installed correctly when first installed.
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Once each door is installed on each side, you can put the 3-way box back into the washing machine for final adjustments. If everything looks right and the door opens and closes properly, go ahead and screw the top into the side of the cabinet, connecting the three main pieces together.
For stability, we cut some back brackets to connect directly to the back to make the cabinet stronger and prevent it from wobbling. Since there are a lot of wires and hoses that need to come out of the back of the washer/dryer, I didn’t want to bolt it to the cabinet, so I used some “X” brackets to look and a straight I used cuts. like this. better way to go.
We just screwed it in instead of gluing it so that if there is a maintenance issue and someone needs to get into the back of the machine, we can remove the support and move the tub in front of the washer/dryer. .
Also, it’s hard to drill directly into the back of the cabinet at this angle without pulling the entire washer/dryer forward to stand behind it, which we did on the side. we cut the support to fit inside the cabinet so we could drill from the side. instead of screwing directly into the back of the corner of the cabinet.
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Once the supports are in place, it’s time to add a coat of paint, some handles, and the 4 small black plugs you see on the front of the cabinet (they come with the hardware and stay in place when the door swings). and close).
I added some hardware (which is a good choice) to cover each door so that the doors come out a little when pushed to the side, because they should stop when they hit the hardware, but you have to open them all. down the road, you can use similar equipment for a completely recessed option.
It’s great, isn’t it? You’ll notice that we made a cutout on the bottom right side of the cabinet so it could sit on the shelf and blend in with the decor, but that’s a bit of a unique need for our space, so I imagine. at least. people just do a full panel from all sides. I love that Todd now goes from “laundry area” to “music studio” mode in seconds without taking up any room in that small area.
While I really like the sliding door feature, it is a bit expensive to add the hardware, so if you have enough room to open the door to keep the washer door open (which you should do. front loading washer to help mold) can
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